Caisteal Grugaig Broch

Caisteal Grugaig is an iron age broch that was built between 400BC and 100AD.

It's remote position makes it extra special, as it is less visited than the other brochs in Glenelg, and it enjoys amazing views of the surrounding lochs and mountains. It was built on an uneven rocky outcrop on the wooded grassy slopes of Faire Donn above the banks of Loch Alsh.

The broch would have been home to a hardy family that farmed the land and fished the waters. Looking at the quality of the land, I suspect they had a diet rich in fish. As well as serving as a family home, it would have also been built as a defensive structure.

There would have been huts surrounding the broch, where other member of the community would have lived. The broch would have been reserved for the chief.

The external diameter of the broch is 16.5m and the internal diameter is around 9.5m. The 7m difference is the width between the two layers of wall, containing the chambers and steps.

The entrance is on the north east of the broch and is topped with a huge triangular lintel. There is a small guard chamber, on the left of the entrance passage, but it's full of fallen debris. There is evidence that there was an additional floor above the entrance.

The inside of the broch was cleared in 1889, making it easier for us to have a look around today. The heart of the broch would have been where the family cooked and gathered, but it would also be an important space for community meetings and socialising.

The broch would have stood around 3m meters high and was probably topped with a conical thatched roof. Looking into the broch you can see the size of the central area. There are doorways in the broch that give access to the chambers, passageways and steps within the walls.

The doorway above leads to chambers, I squeezed in to take a pic. I bet the residents weren't quite as large as me.

The large doorway that you see above, leads to steps within the walls. However, they were in a precarious state when we visited. If you manage to climb them, the views from the top are incredible.

Although sheltered by the hillside to the east and south, it is still in a pretty exposed position. This would have been no accident. The broch is carefully placed on the junction of three lochs. It would be possible to see all activity coming from the sea into Loch Alsh, then onwards into Loch Long and Loch Duich.

As with many of these ancient places, they come with myths and folklore. Caisteal Grugaig is known as the 'Fort of the Witch'. Folklore tells of Grugaig, raising storms, casting spells and generally causing havoc. She is said to have mothered two giant sons named Telve and Todder, and they built the nearby Glenelg Brochs.

Although, other sources suggest Telve and Troddan are more likely to refer to building methods. Take your pick as to which version you prefer.

Parking is a little difficult on the roads around here. If there is no space left at the end of the Letterfairn road at Totaig, please try and find somewhere safe back down the road.

At least it is a beautiful walk, and you get to see Eilean Donan Castle from a different angle.

Just follow the road as it turns left past small cottage and stay on the track as it climbs up onto the grassy slopes, keep an eye on the left as the broch comes into view.

Don't forget to visit the Glenelg Brochs while you are here. They are easier to access and about a 20 minute drive away.

Caisteal Grugaig Broch is designated a Scheduled Monument with Historic Environment Scotland.