Japanese Garden at Cowden

On what used to be the grounds of Cowden Castle is the garden of Isabella “Ella” Christie of Cowden, who was a trailblazing adventurer. Inspired by a trip that included Japan, Ella asked Taki Handa to design a garden in the estate of the family castle she had inherited. The resulting Japanese Garden is considered 'the first and only of its size to be designed by a woman'.

Handa was studying at Studley College in England when Ella hired her for the assignment in 1908. Her previous experience at Nagoya's Royal School of Garden Design helped her with the job, which lasted for two months.

Other Japanese personalities who have had a hand in the garden include Professor Suzuki who in the early 20th century assisted with pruning and other tasks, and declared it “the best garden in the Western world”, Shinzaburo Matsuo who was caretaker from 1925-1937 and Professor Masao Fukuhara who was in charge of the garden's restoration from 2013.

Admiring the authenticity of Japanese detailing is one of the joys of visiting the garden. from statues of mythological tanukis with their peculiar anatomical features to the imported lanterns (which had to be recovered from the bottom of the garden's central loch after being thrown in the water when the garden was vandalised in the 1960s). Just as interesting is the history behind it, not just its connections to the country that inspired but also the tale of how Ella Christie came across the inspiration in the first place.

Ella Christie is believed to have been the first Western woman to meet with the Dalai Lama, which she did during a trip between 1904-05 including parts of the modern-day countries of Malaysia, India and China. Her trip which included Korea and Japan took place a few years later, between 1907-08, with the latter's aesthetics leading to her establishing the garden at Cowden.

When she was around 50 she took on one of her most recognised travels. Waiting for a train in the Scottish town of Dollar, she was asked if the capital Edinburgh was her destination, to which she responded “no, Samarkand”, a historical Central Asian city of the Silk Road, found in modern-day Uzbekistan.

The never-married adventurer and gardener passed away in 1949 at the age of 87, having lived a life that seems far-flung even by modern standards. Her ancestral home of Cowden Castle was demolished 3 years later, making The Japanese Garden the most significant legacy of her life still standing, particularly since its opening to the public in 2017. From my own experience when I visited, it is recommended to purchase tickets in advance to secure entry, as on some days it can actually get full. It's great to arrive early as well, as this lets you take in the garden at your own pace, with its culturally-respectful design really lending itself to moments of reflection.

Did You Know?

1. The garden's Japanese name “Sha Raku En” means a place of pleasure and delight.

2. Queen Mary visited the garden in the 1930s.

3. The garden blends Japanese design and Scottish plants and landscape for a unique cross-cultural feel.