Kirk Yetholm Church

The village of Kirk Yetholm in the Scottish borders is small, and its church is an even smaller part of it, but both have a big history! It's main claim to fame is as the end (or start) of the Pennine Way, a 268-mile stroll that stretches from Edale in the Peak District to the centre of the village. A short walk, if you can manage it after 268 miles, from the end point, lies Kirk Yetholm Church. The current building dates from 1834, replacing a smaller thatched building that had fallen into disrepair, and is of the “Heritor's Gothic” style, popular in Scotland during the 19th century.

There has, however, been a place of worship on the site since the 12th century, which served as a spiritual outpost in what were known as the “Debatable Lands”. As a border Kirk it would have been subjected to some turbulent times, and this is particularly true during the “Rough Wooing” of 1542, where Henry VIII's English Army burned down the town. Not the most romantic way of trying to persuade Mary, Queen of Scots to marry your son!

This wasn't the first link to conflict with the English Army for Kirk Yetholm Church as it was the nearest church to the battlefield at Flodden. Taking place in September of 1513, Flodden was the bloodiest battle between the two countries and resulted in the death of James IV, the “Flower of Scottish nobility”.

Legend had it that many of the slain Scottish nobles were carried across the border and buried at Kirk Yetholm. This legend was given further credence in the 1830's when, during renovations on the church, a number of bodies were discovered with damage consistent with battle wounds.

Kirk Yetholm also has a long connection with the Yetholm Gypsies and was known as the “Gypsy Capital of Scotland”. Two families, the Faas and the Blythes, formed the line of succession, with Patrick Faa and his wife Jean Gordon being the very first King and Queen in the village. This was around 1730, with the final King, Charles Rutherford dying and ending the association with the village in 1902.

In 1830 the Reverend John Baird established the “Ragged School” in the village, with the desire to educate the Gypsy children. The churchyard contains the final resting places of many of the Faa and Blythe dynasties and is a place of pilgrimage for those with an interest in Romani history and genealogy.

The first mention of a church at Kirk Yetholm occurs in 1233, when Nicholas de Gleynwim is recorded as the rector, although there is archaeological evidence of a much earlier origin. Pillar bases, a nook shaft and a capital were discovered during the 1837 rebuild that appear to date from the late 12th century and suggest that the structure then was a substantial one. It is not too far from the religious powerhouse of Kelso Abbey and this may explain its local importance. These pieces of stonework are on display in the church.

The structure that was on the site leading up to the 1834 - 1837 rebuild was described as being “low, damp and cramped” as well as having a thatched roof. It was reputedly the last thatched parish church in Scotland. The current church that was built in its place was designed by the Edinburgh architect, Robert Brown and comprises local Whinstone with cream coloured Sandstone dressings.

The three-stage tower dominates the village skyline, with “Gothick” lancet windows and octagonal buttresses on each corner. Internally there are stained glass windows by Ballantine and Son of Edinburgh, two of which were a bequest from, and dedicated to, Andrew Blythe a member of the Gypsy Royal Family.

A final refurbishment took place in 2014 to provide a more open and flexible community space, which saw the removal of the pews for chairs. The church still has its historic integrity which working for a more modern audience. Indeed many “pilgrims” who have walked the Pennine Way take a few minutes at the end of their walk for some quiet contemplation before heading off to rest their weary legs.