Lunga

Around 7km off the west coast of the Isle of Mull lies a rugged island of basalt, around 1.5km in length, that is a haven for seabirds. The island of Lunga, which is the largest of the Treshnish Isles, rises to a height of around 100m and has a name that derives from the Norse for “Long Ship”, which gives a hint towards its boat like shape.

It is the geology of the island that makes it so attractive to seabirds as the ancient lava flows that formed it, created tiered basalt columns and sea stacks which provide multiple locations for these birds to nest. Given its location, you would be correct in thinking you can only access the island by boat, and we did just this travelling from our base in Oban, via the ferry to Mull and a bus trip to Tobermory, where the boat departs from.

You arrive at Lunga via a rocky shore and have to pick your way across the rocks to get to the path up to the birds. While a tricky route to navigate it can be done by most, with care, indeed there were many older people, some with sticks, who managed to get across. There follows a steep scramble up a dirt path, between rocky outcrops, to a flat grassy plateau where you will find the bird everyone has come to see.

The Atlantic Puffin only comes ashore to breed, spending the rest of the year out at sea, and it is the star attraction wherever it chooses to set up nest. The nesting areas are roped off to give the birds some space, but you can still get very close to them. They are so used to people that they seem unconcerned by your presence, our guide told us that they actually like when people come to visit as they keep the Skuas (which like to eat the Pufflings) away, making it safer for them to come out their burrows.

You can walk the paths around the edge of the island, though they are quite narrow and require care, to take in the views and spot the other birds that make the island their home. Many Shags nest on the cliffs and in rocky crevices, some of which are right next to the path! Keep your eyes peeled or you may find you get a fright as they request you to keep back, they are not shy in giving you a loud warning!

During our visit we spotted loads of wildlife including Common Dolphins on the trip over, Puffins, Shag, Kittiwake, Gannet, Guillemot, Razorbill, Fulmar and Manx Shearwater.

Excitingly for us, we also spotted Great Skua and Arctic Skua, both of which spent their time chasing the gulls and other birds to try and steal their food. We were also lucky enough to spot a Puffling in a small rock crevice next to the footpath.

While it is now a haven for seabirds, it was once a place where people actually lived. Archaeological evidence suggests that human habitation was long-standing though sparse, with people using it for grazing animals. There are remains of a small, blackhouse village on the eastern side of the island, which you can walk round. These buildings would have housed a small crofting community. The last inhabitants of the island are believed to have left in the early 20th century.

The loss of human habitation, while sad, meant the island could be reclaimed and be allowed to flourish, the human colony being replaced by a one of birds. The island is now designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest and a Special Protection Area, both of which afford it a high level of protection.

It is also managed and owned by the National Trust of Scotland.