Soutra Aisle

On a grey and particularly sightless-seeing trip of Midlothian, we revisited this little lump of stone, sand and mortar. Poking its head out of a hillock in the delightfully named village of Fala, like an ever-appearing surprise...Ta daaaaaaa!

The surprise is that this is Soutra Aisle, and was in 1160, one of Scotland's most important hospitals. Yes, I can hear you thinking, was this an A&E for fairies? It's teeeeeeny, but back then, the hospital encompassed more land and buildings and was significant in that it was located halfway between the Scottish Borders and Edinburgh, thus serving those along the busy old highway of what was the old Roman road of Dere Street and also known as The Royal Road. It was a busy thoroughfare and the road and hospital were used by armies, kings, traders and pedlars.

Ordinarily the views from this point are vast and wide, taking in huge swathes of Southern Scotland but the day we visited it was more mist Lothian than Midlothian.

Not much more could be seen beyond the end of our noses. Wren had missed all the rabbits in the mist!

The Ordinance Survey marker indicates that The Soutra Aisle Hospital was 1200ft above sea level, making it the highest medieval hospital and monastic site in the British Isles, looking up towards the Pentland Hills and Arthurs Seat.

A little like the Kepier Hospital in Durham, Soutra Aisle was essentially a place of rest for passing pilgrims, a place of refuge for those fleeing conflict, and a place of sanctuary and alms for the poor, like a hospital hotel monastery! The hospital was established by a group of Augustinian monks like those who resided at Jedburgh Abbey and was supported by the wealth and income of King Malcom IV's vast estates. Malc was in the money which he passed to the monks, which they used for medicine.

The monks would treat people who came to them to be cured of their ailments and archaeological digs in the area photographed have identified evidence of plants being grown at Soutra Aisle which would have been used for their healing properties, as well as seeds which were imported from abroad. These include evidence of opium, hemlock, watercress, Spanish Liquorice, valerian, mistletoe and cloves from East Africa.

These potions made from botanical concoctions would aid amputation, ease the pain of childbirth, remedy the symptoms of scurvy, which would loosen teeth from the gums, treat tumours and depression as well as aid the common cold! Research here shows evidence of plague, famine and anthrax but the hospital was built on this specific site for its easy access to two springs from the Priors Well and the Trinity Well which would have provided healing waters to aid the recovery of the ill.

So, what we could see was essentially a barrel-vaulted chamber, open to the elements through a wrought iron, religiously marked gate facing north. There was nothing much to the small building other than a rubbly appearance and some small stone markings. What remains today is a burial vault dedicated to The Pringle family made from many remnants of the hospital and of other ecclesiastical buildings.

We noticed the mark of the stonemason, like rays of the sun, and a dated lintel over the door stating a date of 1686!

In southeast Scotland an aisle was not just simply part of a church; it was also a stand alone burial ground for the well to do. They often emulate a tiny chapel, and there are thought to be around forty or so in the area. There is a large stone tablet which marks the link to the Pringle family commemorating the death of John Pringle in 1777 aged 77 years, the death of his wife Helen who died in 1796 aged 89 years and to their two sons Robert and John.

If you fancy a trip to Soutra Aisle, fingers crossed it'll be sunny like the first time we visited. It's open on various weekends throughout the year, where they're happy to share information about the history and how effective the hemlock was! Just check their Soutra Aisle website for details.