St Andrew’s Old Church Upleatham

What do you do when you're a bit lost, aimlessly driving around looking for something interesting, when suddenly you spot a tiny little church through the trees? Well, if you're anything like me, you end up slamming your foot on the brakes and craning your neck for a look - with the driver in the car behind employing a few, choice Ango-Saxon words to share his displeasure at my driving, but I reckon it was worth it. (Not that we're advocating this kind of behaviour, of course, but sometimes these things just happen.)

Checking the map, I had just found St Andrew's Old Church in Upleatham.

As I hopped out of the car for a closer look, the weather decided to play ball too - a lone cloud drifted across the sky and lined up perfectly with the church, looking like smoke puffing out of the roof. One of those happy little accidents you couldn't plan if you tried.

Small but mighty

So, after that slightly unusual introduction, say hello to St Andrew's Old Church, Upleatham. This absolute beaut of a building is thought to date all the way back to the 12th century, though the site itself may have been sacred ground long before then. The church is tiny - like, properly tiny. Just 6 by 4 metres. It's often listed among the smallest churches in England, and it can squeeze in maybe 30 people, but only if everyone's friendly.

It was originally tied to Gisborough Priory, thanks to a donation from the local bigwigs, the Brus family (the same family line that gave us Robert the Bruce, no less). Over the centuries, the church saw a few changes. A tower was added in the late 1600s, and you can still spot traces of a now-vanished aisle, hinting that it may have once been a bit roomier.

We shall not, we shall not be moved!

What's fascinating is that Upleatham village actually moved in the 16th or 17th century, leaving this little church behind in its original spot on the edge of the old settlement. While the newer church was built further into the village (now a private home), the old one stood quietly among the trees, weathering centuries of wind, rain and slow ivy creep.

It might not be in regular use anymore, but it was listed as a Grade II building in 1954, which means it's protected and still loved. It's now looked after by the National Churches Trust, who do a brilliant job keeping it standing and accessible.

A peaceful churchyard with secrets to share

The churchyard is as charming as the building itself, stone walls, a soft carpet of moss, and gravestones leaning every which way. If you take your time and look closely, you'll spot some fascinating details.

One of the highlights of the site is a 14th-century effigy of a knight, now sheltered inside the church. There's also the base of a 9th-century Anglo-Danish cross, unearthed during repairs - a real nod to just how far back this place's history stretches.

You'll also find the Lowther Vault, a low stone structure on the eastern side of the yard. Some think it was part of the original church structure, others believe it marks a family burial site. Either way, it adds a bit of mystery to the peaceful surroundings.

Did you know?

At one point, St Andrew's Old Church was believed to be the smallest active parish church in England. It held that title proudly - until another tiny church popped up to take the crown! But even without the record, it's still one of the most characterful little churches you're ever likely to stumble across.

Planning a visit

You'll find the church just off the B1268, east of Upleatham village. There's space to pull in nearby (just be mindful of the road, and don't slam on the brakes all of a sudden when you see it), and the site is open to the public. While the door is often locked, you can see inside through the open porch and take in the peaceful surroundings