Yester Castle and Goblin Ha'

There's something interesting about seeing the word 'Goblin' on the Ordnance Survey map. It's the kind of thing you want to know more about so, we knew we would have to go seek out the ruins of Yester Castle and the Goblin Ha' a 13th century subterranean chamber.

Situated in lovely woodlands, is this 13th century ruin. Though not much of the castle remains, Goblin Ha' is remarkably well preserved. There is plenty to see with the remains split into sections. The ruins are concealed by woodlands and the original castle would have been triangular in plan.

The castle is believed to have been originally built by Sir Hugh De Giffard, the grandson of the First Laird of Yester. He was one of the guardians of Alexander III of Scotland. Perhaps more interestingly he was known as the Wizard of Yesterwith a reputation as a powerful necromancer or warlock. It's said he entered into a pact with the devil to gain his powers, using the subterranean Goblin Ha' to practice. It's said that here he raised an army of Goblins who ultimately built Yester Hall.

Local legends speak of strange noises, odd lights and drunken revelry in the hall. Indeed noises were said to be heard as far away as Dunbar (more on this later). It is said that the castle remains haunted today, a hangover from the Wizard of Yester's sorcery and rituals.

Sadly Goblin Ha' and its chambers are now locked away and a glimpse through a barred gateway is all that can be had, perhaps that is for the best. Access seems to have been restricted after theft of some stone from load bearing walls in 2021. To sneak a peek you need just take the stone stairs in front of the ruins.

Upon Sir Hugh's death, Walter Bower the Abbott at Inchcolm Abbey and a famous chronicler in the 15th century wrote that:

"Hugh Giffard, lord of Yester, dies, whose castle, or at least the cage and dungeon, were built by the art of demoniacal witchcraft, according to ancient accounts."

Perhaps the dark magic is more than just talk afterall.

There are other notable stories linked to Sir Hugh, most infamously the Coulston Pear. Sir Hugh gave his daughter's husband-to-be a hand picked pear with the warning that if anything were to happen to it, it would leave a curse on the Broun family. The pear was kept in a silver box so it would remain safe.

All was well for 100s of years until the wedding night of Sir George Broun in 1692 when his fiancée decided to open the box. She saw a pear that looked as perfect as when it was picked and of course she had to take a bite. The pear turned as hard as rock with the bite mark residing in evidence.

The curse quickly followed. Sir George Broun amassed enormous gambling debts, ultimately forced to sell his estate to to his brother Robert. Robert and his two sons were soon killed whilst travelling to Edinburgh having been swept away by a flash flood caused by the River Tyne (not that one, rather a same named river in East Lothian) bursting its banks. Sir George meanwhile died without a male heir and in destitution. The pear is said to remain at Coulston House to this day.

Back to Sir Hugh and his castle. Sir Hugh was immortalised in Scotland by the legendary Walter Scott in his book Marmion. This was a historical romance culminating in the infamous Battle of Flodden.

Sir Walter Scott paints a picture of a powerful man. Scott writes further about Sir Hugh's work:

"The founder of the Goblin-Hall.

I would, Sir Knight, your longer stay

Gave you that cavern to survey.

Of lofty roof, and ample size,

Beneath the castle deep it lies:

To hew the living rock profound,

The floor to pave, the arch to round,

There never toil'd a mortal arm,

It all was wrought by word and charm;

And I have heard my grandsire say,

That the wild clamour and affray

Of those dread artisans of hell,

Who labour'd under Hugo's spell,

Sounded as loud as ocean's war,

Among the caverns of Dunbar."

It conjurs quite the dramatic imagery.

Yester Castle was replaced in the late 17th century / early 18th century by John Hay, the 8th Lord of Yester who built the nearby Yester House, a palladian mansion.

Yester House was famously purchased in 1972 by composer Gian Carlo Menotti, most well known for the opera Amahl and the Night Visitors. Yester House and Estate is now owned by Gareth and Nicola Wood. Gareth is the son of the oil tycoon Sir Ian Wood, Nicola is a former Miss Scotland. They have been slowly restoring Yester House and are known for their charity work.

The house can be hired for corporate events and family and there are occasionally community events, otherwise the house is private.

The ruins of Yester Castle are split into two parts.

To reach Yester Castle the shortest route is from the Gatehouse at Danskine Loch. Parking here is very limited, however. You can add a short loop around the loch itself.

Alternatively you can walk from Gifford, entering the Yester Estate via the public access gate which takes you on to what is known as Yester Path.

It's a lovely walk through varied woodland which includes some impressive redwoods. Gifford Water bubbles away. The turning for Yester Castle is not sign posted so a map is helpful. It is muddy in places but it is definitely worth it once the castle ruins and its mysterious hall are reached.

If starting in Gifford there is a lovely cafe in the village called Lanterne Rouge which refreshed us after our walk!

As Augustus Muir wrote in 1945 in his book Heather Track and High Road: a book of Scottish Journeys:

"those with a taste for the macabre will want to visit Goblin Ha"